If you want to explore Hvar by bike the possibilities
are endless. However, if you are ready to spend the whole
day on your bike and see everything that is interesting
on the north-west tip of the island in one day then this
itinerary should suit you.
0 km - 12 km camping "Naturist"
(Vrboska) - Pitve Tunnel
For our starting point we have chosen
camping "Naturist" because it is ideal for cyclists
equipped with tents. It is situated in a dense pine forest
near Vrboska in a little bay ideal for swimming and sunbathing,
overlooking Bol on the island of Brač and Makarska, which
lies at the foot of the Biokovo mountain.
Let's go then!
On exiting the camp, turn left and descend
some two hundred metres to where there is a track on the
right leading to Vrboska. The track runs past hotels and
villas, just above the sea, under a thick pine canopy. After
2.2km
on arriving at Vrboska,
turn left at the bridge and immediately after the bridge
turn left again. Continue along the waterfront through Vrboska,
past the
Marina, heading towards Jelsa.
Then turn right through a park before reaching the Coffee
House. This road leads from Jelsa to the cross-roads ie.
to the main road to the town of Hvar. We take this road,
pass the pump station and reach a cross-roads (take care
not to turn right at the wine cellar but continue half-left).
At the cross-roads go straight ahead following the sign
Pitve - Sv. Nedelja. When you reach a smaller cross-roads
continue straight ahead. After 9 kilometres you'll arrive
at the sign to Pitve. Lower and Upper Pitve are just above
you, carved in the hillside. The hill configuration ahead
hints where the tunnel, "famous" among cyclists
and drivers, is. After passing Pitve, to the left you'll
have a magnificent view of the valley, woods, vineyards,
Jelsa and mighty Biokovo.
Continue following the road signs to Ivan
Dolac and Sv. Nedelja. After about 11km you'll reach the
famous tunnel (240 m/asl) which is an attraction in this
area. It is 1.4 km long and so low and narrow that only
a van can pass through (I'm not sure about a truck). It
is not lit and traffic lights are only provided during the
day - at each end there are men with mobile phones who control
the traffic by letting the cars through by turns. The only
safe way of getting through the tunnel is to ask a car driver
to turn their headlights full on and patiently drive behind
you. In this way you will have a safe and interesting trip
through the tunnel. To try to ride through with only the
lights on your bike is inadvisable and could be dangerous
because the light coming from the tunnel opening will dim
your lights.
12.5 km - 21.5 km, Tunnel Pitve
- Sv. Nedelja
On exiting the tunnel the view opens
out onto the sea and the island of Sčedro, which is covered
by thick vegetation. In the distance is the island of Korčula.
You now begin a steep descent and after a few hair-pin bends
arrive at the crossroads. The road to the left goes to Zavala;
but you will be continuing straight ahead, following the
sign for Ivan Dolac and Sv. Nedelja. The road follows the
contour line, some eighty metres above sea level, all the
way to Sv. Nedelja. You pass the branch road for Ivan Dolac
(17 km), where, if you wish, you can have a swim on a beautiful
little beach. However, if you continue you'll find even
better opportunities for swimming further on.
Down the slopes are vineyards and pine forests,
and at sea level a rock with a lighthouse and another rock
as thin as a needle (the islands of Lukavci). Ahead, in
the distance, are the contours of the island of Vis. To
the right, on a steep hillside, olive trees and lavender
are gown. One should visit these parts in June to see the
lavender in full bloom.
You now approach Sv. Nedelja. First you'll
come to the point where one road branches and ascends high
uphill. Here you turn to the left. Soon after that you reach
the point where the road branches and goes uphill to the
right and downhill to the left. This time you take the steep
road to the right until you arrive at a house bearing the
sign "Put Stjepana Radića". It is at this point
that the journey becomes something of an endurance test
- we suggest you take plenty of water with you !!
21.5 km - 27.5 km Sv. Nedelja -
Dubovi dol cove (road Hvar-Starigrad)
From the a.m. sign, winding between the
houses, descends a steep concrete path which, after some
hundred metres, turns into a goat track (21.5 km). You'll
still be able to ride for several hundred metres, and then,
depending on your skills, you'll probably find you will
be both riding and pushing your bike, and later on you might
find you have to carry it. Believe it or not this goat track
actually has a name and after some time you'll arrive at
a stone sign on which is written "Put Ludovika Bočka".
Beyond that sign one track goes steep uphill; however we
turn to the left, downhill. Passing by a small chapel you
arrive at a high spot from which there is a view of a magnificent
cove with spectacular rocks, vertically carved by erosion,
towering above it.
This cove is called Lučišće and we suggest
you take a long break here: firstly because it is ideal
for swimming and secondly, it would be inexcusable not to
call upon barba Tomislav and nona Ruža who, during the summer,
live in a small cottage above the cove. They have their
own excellent red wine and you should try to arrange a light
meal prepared by nona Ruža. Although this is not a restaurant
they are incredibly hospitable and everything they offer
is from their own garden or what barba Tomislav has caught
angling.
Your decision to carry on depends on the weather.
If it is summer, and very hot, you should wait for a while
because an hour and a half of dragging or pushing your bike
up the rugged ground will be more of an ordeal than fun
in the hot sun. Barba Tomislav says that he has seen several
cyclists on that track but no-one has been here twice. I
decided to take his advice and moved on late in the afternoon.
First, leaving the cove you climb steeply uphill - short
serpentines ascend to 130 m/asl.
Those who love the Mediterranean and coastal
scenery will enjoy this track. After climbing to the top
take the narrow track. Behind you is a view of Sv. Nedelja.
After some 50 minutes walk you'll arrive at a high point,
from where it looks as though you can reach a deep bay,
where the track branches. Take the right track leading downhill.
The track is overgrown with dense undergrowth because hardly
anybody passes through except nona Ruža when she visits
her kin in Dubovica. She says that a better and broader
path is on the left, however, since I didn't try it I can't
guarantee it. So, taking either the left or right track,
after about ten minutes you'll arrive at the cove called
Pisćena. There is a house where you can get refreshments.
The scenery now completely changes. Through a charred forest
and tall grassland, half an hour from Pisćena, you'll arrive
at Dubovi Dol cove (the village is called Dubovica). Take
a short break at Bob's, a guy from Zagreb who is the owner
of a snack bar with a very special atmosphere. You'll also
enjoy having another swim here.
27.5 km - 36 km Road above Dubovica
- Starigrad
After you have recharged your batteries
you have a steep ascent to the road which goes from Starigrad
- Hvar. Back on your bike and after a short uphill ride
you'll reach a tunnel (wide, lit, air-conditioned). On the
other side of the tunnel is a view of Starigrad
and its bay, and in the distance the island of Brač. The
road descends steeply to Starigrad. On arriving at the crossroads
turn left for the ferry terminal. At the far end of the
bay, from the ferryboat port, a track leads to Starigrad
along the coast. The track is more attractive than the road.
In Starigrad, besides sightseeing, you can have a light
meal in one of the interesting restaurants, ie. "the
Czech Wine Cellar". "Česka Konoba" (the Czech
Wine Cellar/Tavern) is owned by Jan Dedera. As well as original
Czech and Dalmatian cuisine you should also try their own
dishes. Jan is an expert cook and fisherman. The name of
the wine cellar is "Amfora" and you'll find it
in a little square called Škor (phone: 021 765 921). After
a chat on various topics: food, fishing, hiking and mushroom
picking, proceed towards the bus station and pass the market
place until you reach a dirt road leading to Vrboska.
36 km - 45 km Starigrad - Camp
"Naturist" (Vrboska)
The dirt road passes through vineyards
and interesting landscape. You'll pass by a small airport
with a dirt runway for gliders and small airplanes. After
a while the dirt road changes to a narrow tarmac road. At
the crossroads you'll find to the left a blue sign for camp
"Naturist" but you continue straight ahead. This
road will take you to the centre of Vrboska. Turn left across
the bridge and follow the road along the seashore which
will take you to the camp.
Gojko Grubor - Vrboska, August 24, 2000
If
you notice any changes on route, which are not introduce
in route description, please inform us about changes
on email: rigo@pedala.hr
Croatia / 